We are marching ever forward, though sometimes I feel like we're standing still. I've made a little bit of progress on a lot of things. First, the front and rear wheel supports have finally been mounted to the frame!
Now we just need mountable wheels! 🤔 The front wheels are still a bit of a question mark, so I worked on the rear wheel. I tried rebuilding the 26" rear wheel to use a rear hub (the tire originally had a front hub). It wasn't too bad for my first time. I watched a video on building bicycle wheels a few times and referred to it while working.
Then an issue revealed itself. The video I watched was for a regular wheel, but we're using fat wheels on the Falcon. The spoke pattern is slightly different than a regular wheel. Suddenly, I was lost and the wheel was in pieces.
Luckily, I had two of these tires. The second wheel was a great guide for placing the spokes correctly into the rim. And I was able to finish installing the spokes. However, the original spokes turned out to be about 10mm too long for the new hub.
I had measured and compared the original and new hubs and thought it would work, but I thought wrong. And so it goes with kinetic sculptures: expect modifications to the modifications. New, shorter spokes were ordered. And I rebuilt the wheel with the correctly sized spokes.
Now I have to true it. There is a truing stand in Lowell Makes' Bike Shop and videos on how to use it on YouTube. Once it is balanced, I will finally be ready to mount the rear wheel!! Yay!
Stiff Knuckles
I also addressed the problem of the stiff knuckles on the front, left side. The knuckles allow the wheels to change direction while allowing the wheel to spin. This is key to the front-wheel steering. I discovered during the first dry-fit that the front suspension had warped a bit during welding and the space where the knuckle sits shrank by .150".
The knuckle brackets have ledges where the bearing plate attaches. At first, I thought I could mill those ledges down, but I realized that wouldn't work. Doing that would also require modifying the bearing plate. Too much work.Instead, I lowered the counterbores on top of the brackets. I hesitated doing it this way initially, because I thought it would be harder. But it only took 5 minutes to make the change to the 3D model and another 5 minutes to run the update on the Tormach. Easy Pease.
Hyperdrive Assembly
Differential Alignment
Also during the first dry-fit, I mounted the bushing plates I designed for the modified lawnmower differential. I eventually got it to spin freely, but I had to tune its alignment like a drum--turning nuts a bit at a time while checking the spin. The alignment was so sensitive that I know road conditions would definitely knock the differential out of tune.
I realized that all the bushings had to sit on a common surface. They would then stay aligned to each other without needing fine adjustment. This is actually how the original differential case works, so that should have been a clue.
I then designed a single plate that attaches to the existing brackets and has mounting holes for all the bushing blocks. But it couldn't just be a plate with holes in it, right? It had to feel a little more Falcon than that.
Once I was happy with the new design, I used the Tormach to make it.
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